Garrick Gott

Photo: Jost Sarwoko

It has been quite a catch-me-if-you-can exchange between me and Robert Knoke. When I met Robert during the Scope Art Fair this past February at Lincoln Center he was standing in the center of a dimmed exhibition space surrounded by life-sized black ink paintings. Dressed in complete black, Robert looked as if he belonged in one of his paintings. Though the raw lines and strokes of his work are awe inspiring, Robert made an impression on me for a different reason. Standing faithfully beside his art during the fair the artist chatted passionately about it to any passerby who caught his eye. At first Robert’s childlike enthusiasm didn’t seem to match his somewhat menacing portraits. His distinct choice of subject and the  impact of a single traditional medium used with tireless effect, earned him recognition from both the art and fashion world.  Trotting between Berlin and New York, I briefly caught up with Robert while he was in town for the release of his latest book project “Black Material.”

When did you become a portraitist? I am not a portraitist, people are my subject.

Who was your first subject when you formed your signature style? Originally, this is the way I drew. The figures that I drew did not contain detailed faces. Later,  I learned how to draw realistic people. The artist Leon Golub was my first main subject.

Most of your subjects are celebrities, do you think you’re creating a legend for yourself? Words such as “celebrity” and “legend” do not interest me. I am fascinated by people, not by their range of fame.  Most of my popular subjects are favored among a certain circle of people. Nearly everyone that I draw is not famous like Britney Spears or the Pope. Fame is not my focus.

Leigh Lezark

What keeps you going? Knowing that sooner or later I will die, which makes me want to work faster.

What would you be doing if you were not an artist? I do not know.

How did “Black Material” come about? I was asked to work on a limited edition book, including a t-shirt and DVD. When I found out I had to complete 240 pages, I immediately had visions of detailed shots of my drawings, where my focus was not on the subject, instead, on the surface of the drawing. The title “Black Material” stands for my abstract idea of drawing and materiality. I did not want it to have a title similar to “New Portraits” or “People” because, again, I am not a portraitist.

You seem to be crossing the line between fashion and design a lot. Are you soon to have your own fashion line or other endeavors? I am a visual artist, not a designer. So I do not see myself crossing that line. All I do is draw pictures, which is completely conservative. I recently received some attention by the fashion industry because I drew people such as Gareth Pugh, Rick Owens and Nicola Formichetti.

I cannot imagine myself working in fashion and fulfilling a deadline of completing four collections in a year. Fashion’s focus is to make people look beautiful, which is not mine. There is a big difference!

I love fashion and I do see myself designing a piece at some point, but seeing my drawings on t-shirts is enough now. I have a different way of thinking. On the up side, the fashion industry currently has more artistic potential than the art world. Art is not as relevant now as it was 40 years ago. Maybe the meaning of art and fashion will change in the future.

What do you listen to for inspiration? I try to listen to intelligent people, which can be inspiring and disturbing.

Gareth Pugh

All images courtesy of the artist